lunaticsinge.com - Basque Cuisine Fish & Shellfish

Elvers (young eel) - (Serves 3 to 4)

Ingredients:

1/2 dried guindilla chili

1 tablespoon mild olive oil

1 garlic clove, thinly sliced

7 oz. elvers, fresh, frozen, or preserved

1. Slice the chile into thin rings. In a medium skillet, heat the olive oil over high heat. Add the garlic and 2 rings of the chile (or more, if desired). Cook, stirring, for 30 seconds, then remove the chile rings with a slotted spoon and set aside.

2. When the garlic slices begin to turn golden, about 30 seconds more, remove the skillet from the heat. Add the elvers and mix gently, ideally tossing by hand or very delicately with a wooden spoon. Allow them to cook in the residual heat of the skillet for 1 minute.

3. Transfer to a serving dish and serve warm, garnishing with reserved chile rings.

Salt Cod Stew - (Serves 3 to 4)

Ingredients:

12 oz. shredded or whole fillet salt cod, desalted

4 dried choricero peppers, or 2 tablespoons choricero pepper puree

5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 sweet Italian green peppers (Cubanelle), diced

1 red bell pepper, seeded & diced

1 onion, diced

3 garlic cloves, minced

3/4 cup tomato sauce

1. If you're working with a whole salt cod fillet, once it's desalted, shred it with your hands and set aside (should have 2 cups).

2. If you're using dried choricero peppers, heat 4 cups water in a sauce pa. Put the peppers in a bowl and pour enough hot water over the peppers to cover. Soak until they are soft, up to 1 hour, depending on the pepper.

3. Drain and pat dry with a paper towel. Open each pepper with a knife, discarding the stems and seeds. Scrape the pulp from the skin of the peppers with the knife and discard the skin. Set the choricero pulp aside.

4. In a medium skillet, heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the green and red peppers and the onion. Reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring, until tender and beginning to caramelize, 20 to 30 minutes.

5. In a separate skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the garlic. When it begins to color, add the salt cod and cook, allowing it to take on some of the garlic-oil flavor and to cook out any water, for about 5 minutes. Add the tomato sauce and the choricero pulp (or puree, if using). Cook stirring, until the mixture comes together nicely, then add the peppers and onion to the mixture. Cook for 5 minutes more.

6. Serve hot. This dish is even better the day after it is made. Reheat and add a bit of water if it is drying out.

San Sebastian-Style Spider Crab - (Serves 4)

Ingredients:

1/4 cup kosher salt, plus more as needed

2 ( 2 lb.) spider crab, or substitute with local crabs

1/2 cp extra-virgin olive oil

1 carrot, minced

2 onions, minced

1 leek, rinsed well & minced

1/2 cup tomato sauce, or 1 tomato, peeled & minced

1/4 cup brandy

Dried bread crumbs

Butter

1. Bring a stockpot of heavily salted water to a boil; at least 1/4 cu of salt in the water.

2. Add the crab to the boiling water and cook it according to the times indicated in the Note below. Remove and set aside. When the crab is cool enough to handle, pick out all the meat. Reserve the shell to fill later, and reserve any liquid inside.

3. Cut the body in half and then in quarters and patiently pick out all the meat. Crack the claws and pick the meat as well, being careful to remove and discard any bits of shell. Set the crabmeat aside in a bowl.

4. In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the carrot, onions, and leek along with a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are golden and tender, about 45 minutes.

5. Meanwhile, preheat the broiler.

7. Add the tomato sauce to the pan with the onions and cook for 3 minutes. Add the brandy and simmer to cook out the alcohol. Add the crabmeat and the liquid from the body to the skillet. Bring to a lively simmer and cook for a few minutes more, until the sauce has thickened a bit and has a pleasant consistency - not soupy, but thickly saucy.

8. Stuff the reserved shells with the crab mixture, dividing it evenly between the two. Sprinkle the bread crumbs on top and dot with butter. Place the crabs on a baking sheet or broiler pan and broil until the top of the crust begins to bubble and turn golden, about 5 minutes. Serve immediately.

NOTE: To know how long to boil your crab, use these weight and time ratios:

21 oz. = 8 minutes

35 oz. = 12 minutes

52 oz. = 15 minutes

Tuna & Tomato Salad - (Serves 4)

Ingredients:

1 jar or can (7.7 oz) tuna in olive oil

3 tomatoes

Flaky sea salt

1 spring onion

15 pickled guindilla chiles

Extra-virgin olive oil

1. Remove the tuna from the can or jar and drain well.

2. Slice the tomatoes into thick wedges. Arrange them in a single layer on a serving platter and sprinkle lightly with salt.

3. Gently breaking up the tuna, arrange it on top of the tomatoes, leaving a generous border.

4. Thinly slice the spring onion using a knife or, better, a mandoline and sprinkle it across the top.

5. If desired, cut the guindilla peppers into 1/2-inch pieces, discarding the stem. For a more rustic presentation, leave the peppers whole. Place across the center of the salad.

6. To finish, sprinkle with salt and drizzle generously with olive oil. Serve.

Grilled Tuna Belly - (Serves 4)

Ingredients:

1 whole skin-on tuna belly, (2 lbs)

Kosher salt

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, sliced

1 small guindilla chile

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar

1. Bring the tuna belly to room temperature. Prepare the grill to high heat, but with no live lames. Place the grate 6 to 8 inches above the heat source.

2. Sprinkle the tuna belly generously with salt on both sides.

3. Place the tuna belly in a grilling basket, if you have one, and lay it skin-side down on the grill (otherwise, make sure the grill is very hot, then place the fish directly on the grates). Grill until you see that the skin is browning, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip gently and cook for 2 to 3 minutes more.

4. Remove from the grill when the thinnest part of the belly is cooked. Place on a serving platter, skin-side down.

5. Meanwhile, in a small skillet, combine the olive oil, garlic, and chile and heat over medium-high heat. When the garlic begins to brown, remove from the heat.

6. Pour the hot chile-garlic oil over the fat parts of the fish to help continue the cooking. Carefully tilt the platter so the oil falls back into the skillet.

7. Add the vinegar to the skillet and bring the mixture to a simmer, swirling to mi. Pour the oil over the tuna for a second time.

8. Serve warm on a large serving platter with a simple salad and crusty bread.

Squid with Caramelized Onions - (Serves 4)

Ingredients:

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 spring onions, thinly sliced

2 sweet Italian peppers (Cubanelle), thinly sliced

Kosher salt

3 garlic cloves

24 fresh baby squid, or 12 larger squid

1/2 cup acidic white wine

1. In a medium sauté pan, heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onions and peppers, along with a generous pinch of salt. Mince two of the garlic cloves and add them to the pan. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is a deep golden brown, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Remove from the heat and set aside.

2. Meanwhile, working over the sink, clean the squid by first removing the finned tube from the tentacles. With the head section in in one hand, grasp the tail section and pull gently. Reserve the silvery ink bag that comes out with the innards; it can be frozen for another use. Pull out and discard the hard beak in the center of the tentacles. On a cutting board, cut the tentacles just below the eyes, and rinse the tentacles under cold water. Set the tentacles aside on a plate.

3. Reaching inside the tube, pull out the cartilage and discard. At this point, removing the film of outer skin is an optional step, and one often skipped by Basque cooks. Rinse the tubes under cold water. Remove the fins and discard. Stuff the body tubes with the tentacles.

4. Place the pan with the peppers and onions back over medium heat. Thinly slice the remaining garlic clove.

5. In a separate medium sauté pan, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil over high heat. Season the stuffed squid with salt. When the oil is very hot, add the squid to the pan. Cook without disturbing for 1 minute, then turn the squid. Add the garlic slices and cook for 1 to 2 minutes more, until well browned on both sides.

6. Transfer the squid to the pan with the onions and peppers. Pour in the white wine and simmer over low heat until the mixture comes together, about 3 minutes.

7. To serve, on a platter, arrange the vegetables under or on top of the squid. If you have any leftovers, the flavors will improve the next day.

Rice with Clams - (Serves 3 to 4)

Ingredients:

1 1/2 lbs. clams

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 spring onions, diced

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons parsley, chopped

1 cup white wine

1 cup short-grain rice (bomba)

1 teaspoon kosher salt

2 to 3 cups fish broth

1. Place the clams in a bowl, add cold water to cover, and set aside. After 20 minutes, scrub and drain the clams; set aside

2. In a medium pot, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium heat. Add half the onions and half the garlic. Cook stirring occasionally, until the vegetables begin to turn translucent, just a few minutes. Add the clams and 1 tablespoon of the parsley. Stir. Add 1/2 cup of the wine and bring to a simmer. When the clams begin to open, after 2 minutes, remove from the heat. Reserve.

3. In a separate large pot, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. Add the remaining garlic and onion. Cook, stirring, until tender, about 10 minutes. Add the rice and salt then cook, stirring, for 1 minute.

4. Add the remaining 1/2 cup wine and bring the mixture back to a simmer. Measure the clam cooking liquid and add enough fish broth so that you have 2 3/4 cups of the liquid total. Once the alcohol has cooked off, add the broth mixture and reduce the heat to maintain a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 17 minutes. The rice should still be brothy and a touch al dente. Remove the pot from the heat. Add the clams and remaining 1 tablespoon parsley and cover. Let rest for 5 minutes.

5. Serve, dividing the clams evenly between plates, arranged atop the rice.